Silvia Club of NSW

l6a6w6s6- split from the I'm back baby thread in the 180sx section. Car returned to me from engine rebuild with a clutch which will make a huge grinding noise when engaged and car in gear, and also impossible to shift quickly between gears.


have a look at the clutch master cylinder under the dash.

Heaps of them have started leaking lately!

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The Engine Whisperer - fixer of things

If its the clutch master cylinder, you should also be getting oil from the cylinder leaking on to the floor in the cabin under the pedals.

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There are 10 types of people in the world, those who understand binary, and those who dont!!

I know the throwout bearing on my clutch causes it to make a bit of a grindy noise. might be worth checking

Can you describe the process some more Gary?

Grinding noise or a violenr grinding noise and vibration that only stops when you quickly put it back in neutral?

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S13 Silvia Tuning - The Definitive SR20 Modifying Site

Ahh sorry mate. Mine just does it when I push/release the clutch. Right on the point of engagement.

What do you mean when you say shift with pace?? does the gear not go in, does it go in with a crunch? and does it happen throughout all 5 gears?
I have a problem with second gear, I think its a selector. It will only go in at certain revs, all other gears are fine.

with my clutch howerver, I get a grinding noise when my clutch is cold and at half contact, like just moving the car in my yard.. like a whizzing sound. when I push the clutch in the sound stops, or if the clutch is at full contact, normal driving, then there is also no noise.

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There are 10 types of people in the world, those who understand binary, and those who dont!!

Moving the car around with hloaf clutch and whatever is fine, no noises or anything. It happens randomly, a loud grinding sound and a lot of vibration though the pedal. Always with the pedal all the way in and the car in gear.

As for the shifting the box was fine when it went in, and yes it is all gears, but with second the worse. Before it went in though second was a bit worse than the rest, so the results are consistantly worse.

It just jams, I feel that if I pushed it hard it would grind and crunch but I haven't yet.

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S13 Silvia Tuning - The Definitive SR20 Modifying Site

very good.

If it is just random, maybe somthing has come loose in the clutch housing? I would also be taking it back.
pity to hear!!

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There are 10 types of people in the world, those who understand binary, and those who dont!!

I had the exact same prob with my clutch when i got it bak from ricol,

I changed the oil to somthing thinner, and i adjusted the clutch to engage higher from the floor, so its engaged for a bit longer on changes, now has perfect shifts.

Whereas it use to crunch at anything over 5000rpm

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BUILT TO BE DRIFTED


97 200SX

AJ was yours doing the grinding thing too?

I've tried adjustign the pedal to no avail. The pickup point was already heaps high, so I moved it lower (how I prefer) but the problems persist.

btw I ended up having an argument over the phone with them and they said it was wear and tear and just coincidence.

Will be taking it to Western Clutch to have it sorted soon. If they say that Ricol stuffed up then I'll be chasing up the bill.

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S13 Silvia Tuning - The Definitive SR20 Modifying Site

hmmm, sounds familiar doesnt it AJ..

Western clutch are great guys. I've seen some questionable quality of work at richol myself.

ok looked at an old thrust bearing assembly sitting in the shed from my old gearbox.

Thrust bearing on end of fork:



Clutch fingers in centre of clutch:



Ok so the fork is pushed by the slave cylinder which pushes the thrust bearing into the spring fingers on the clutch.

The center of the thrust bearing remains still attached to the fork and the outer part rotates to match the speed of the spinning clutch/flywheel assembly correct?

If the bearing were seized or seizing intermittently, the outer part could stop turning and thus a grinding sound would be made as the fingers of the clutch collided with the surface of the thrust bearing.

Also with shifts there might be a delay period in which the bearing struggles to match the clutch rotational speed and makes it hard to shift for a second. There is a slight grinding noise on most shifts.

Theory seems sound to me, can anyone comment on if this sounds right?

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S13 Silvia Tuning - The Definitive SR20 Modifying Site

Basically if your thrust bearing has shat it's self than you'll get a bit of noise when the clutch pedal is in as the bearing is spinning but it will be making no noise when the clutch pedal is out as it's not spinning.

So if you can move the car around with the clutch lightly slipping without the car making any noise then i'd say it's someting different.

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meh

Your theory is right from my memory. I had the thrust race (other names used - thrust bearing/ release bearing) go on an old HR holden. A nasty screaming sound whenever the clutch pedal was pushed in but fine when the clutch pedal was not used as the thrust race was not touching the fingers. That is a very good reason for putting the car in neutral at lights with the foot off the clutch pedal. Luckily with crappy old holdens the gearbox is nice and sloppy and really easy to match the revs to do clutchless gear changes so I only used the clutch to take off from lights for 3 months until I had time to fix it.

The thrust race is very cheap (well is for crappy old holdens so probably is for Silvia's as well) but unfortunately to replace it meant having to take the gear box off as the gearbox front shaft goes inside the thrust race. All good clutch places replace it and the diaphragm springs (the fingers) when replacing the clutch as it is not worth while having to take it apart later.

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Convertibles Rule