Silvia Club of NSW

to summarise, put it on the dyno a few weeks ago and it was lagging in boost, showed the spike and where it drops..found out my boost controller was fucked so i repaced it on Sat with a new one.

car finally ran like a DREAM all sat / sunday untill sunday afternoon i dropped down a few gears and gave it a hit, of course theres the usual spike then it drops down to about 12psi, but then it decided to go into limp mode, my plugs wern't fouled up as no black shit came out the back when i tried giving it some. turned the car off and on and it drove fine, thought it may be just cause it was a hot day yesterday

However, thismorning on my way to work it happened again! going up warringah road i didn't even hit past 3psi pugging up the hill and the car kinda died in the arse, it didn't go into limp mode, but it just felt like there was no boost or pressure or whatever you call it

on idle when the car is like this, it shudders like a whore then corrects itself, then shudders again (bounces from around 900rpm to 1100rpm..sits happily on 1000rpm..then goes to 900 and process continues)

then it corrects itself and drives fine.

Any ideas on what this could be? i've got new plugs, new leads, new boost controller, and a tune cause it was running way too rich before. the boys thought it may be the wastegate but i got that checked and it appears to be fine?

I'm taking it down to A&B in brookie at lunch time, but if i can get some sort of points for them to look at that would be great

cheers,
- Bree

does your car have an AFM or is it does it have a MAP sensor. i cant remember but could be the AFM needs a clean if you have one, When you say you changed the leads are your refering to the coil pack? if not maybe see if you can borrow someone elses and see if you got the same problem.

When the new boost controller was installed was it installed on a Dyno?
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KISSING ADVICE ADVICE

No, a guy building a mates engine just put it in.. using the boost guage he drove it around and set it back to 15psi.. its one of the turbosmart ones that you wind it up manually

Its going on a dyno at lunch time to be looked at though.

And the coilpacks were checked along with the leads which were replaced. the coil packs themselves were running the correct voltage..

problem is it happens on and off I'm not sure if it has an amf or map sensor, i have an autronic.. so if it has either im not too sure.

vaccum leak ???

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nope, just got brand new lines or whatever you call the vaccum leads put in saturday along with the boost controller, i even checked that they were securely tightened too after the issue incase they may have fell off, or if it was a bit loose.

this is driving me up the wall, im getting Chris (that did all the origional tuning) to have a look at the autronic when i have money for that + dyno.. but if its something else thats a waste of $400.

do you have a boost gauge? whats the vacum at idle? would kinda hint to weather there is a boost leak/engine internal fault. it shuld be around -18

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I got no idea. could it be 15psi is too much for standard waste gate?

It'd still be boosting even if 15psi were to much... Sounds like you have a split joiner somewhere & the fact you have a MAP sensor the car is staying alive...

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TRK-DV - Grip & Drift Project

my sr20det shows round -24 to -20 vaccume. does that signify boost leak?

you will have less vacuum if u have a boost leak or other problems

for instance with my car im lucky to get more than a tiny bit of vacuum on the gauge at all but thats because my motor is broken

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brett | reaper

ahhh so the more vaccume the better. awesome. thanks mate.

It's not a boost problem. Was idoling at the lights and the car just had another shuddering outburst and went into limp mode instantly when i went to drive around the corner to my work

I think one of the plugs and leads have fouled up again. I'll look at it this afternoon

I have water in my engine and some corrosion (yeah i have NO idea how water got INTO my engine unless the previous owner cleaned the engine bay with a hose) and ive always had problems with the first lead shorting out..only the one for some reason.

so i'll pull it appart this afternoon and let you know. this was the issue last time.. has that fuzzy stuff around the end of the lead where you see it was shorting.

That is good. My sr20det shows 24 on the boost gauge at idle.
This is good apart from the fact that one of my gaskets is gone. Its annoying.

plugs replaced last night, car ran fine for the whole night, no limp mode, was running great on full boost.

this-morning she was idoling rough (at the right revs, but car was shuddering) and sounded like a rexy when driving.. I pulled over and let it warm up but it still did it all the way to work

I think im just going to throw it to the guy that does all the tuning on it. put it on the dyno and see what he can do. i'm stumped

its definatley spark related ... i would be looking at the ignitor and wiring that leads to it


or let ya car idle then pop the hood and move the wiring around that plugs into the ignitor ,,, if it stalls when ya move it you have some cooked wires .. another thing you can try is when its idling pull up the coilpacks one at a time if you remove a coilpack and the idle changes move to the next one , when u get to one that doesnt effect the idle that coil pack is ur issue

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