Silvia Club of NSW

hey if you'ze remember me asking about getting either a 200 or r32 , well i decided to a get a 180sx, but i dont know (yet) what to put in it

ive seen on the net, a mechanic website or sumthing, a ca18det 180 that ran 11 . sumthing quarter miles , but to get these times out of such an engine would cost lota $$$$$$ yeh? :S

how much would it cost to get a ca18 or sr20 running thoise times?

from reading here and other net sites i guess rb20's dont go that hard, so what do all of uze think is the best way 2 go

rb25det ? but alot of ppl with R33's are changing to rb30's so......whats that tell you


rb26dett ? im guessing to expensive, how much is one of them?

rb30det? its old and cheap , but if ppl with skylines are dumping the rb25 for them it says sumthing, someone told me, if i put a rb26 head ill have to put twin turbos? that right?.....you see when alot of ppl do up TT cars they just put one big turbo but hey

orrrrrr........13b turbo( or twin turbo, series 8 rx7 motor) , has this been done?????

:):) any help would be appreciated !!

13b tuurrrrboo

That's my vote

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Or a 20b - it's like two 13b's strapped together :O twin turbo if I'm not mistaken...

to get 11's you'd need to rebuild it, balance it out for reliability at higher rpm and strap a fairly big turbo onto it.

most guys with a 180sx will get into the 12 second bracket with 200 rwkw

so to get into the 11's your probably look at close to 300 rwkw

which means like 2 bar of boost.

or, you could transplant an rb25det, do the usual lightish mods & you'll see probably high 11's fairly easily.

either way will see you spending a considerable amount of money.

buy a dato ute + a 13bt and you'll get 11's easy

RB20's go fine but because of the extra weight it's not a worthwhile swap when compared to an sr.

RB25 would be the minimum if you want to go an rb, particularly if you are going for big numbers, as it weighs only slightly more than the rb20 but makes a fair bit more power (closer to 300 rwkw on stock internals). The skyline guys are changing to 3lt bottom ends with rb25 head, not the single cammer. They already have 300kw or better so thats not really saying the 2.5 isn't a decent engine.

Personally i'd stick with the SR due to the amount of stuff available for it and the ease of the engine swap and the fact that you'll have a better balanced car overall. And you can make 250rwkw on a standard bottom end if you try hard enough and your engine is healthy.

If you do go a rotary it'd have to be from a series 6 or better, It'd be illegal for you to drop in the $2200 special from a series 4 because of it's age, also a rotary engine that age will be rooted and so will the turbo. If you go the s6 engine it'll cost more and you'd have to swap the factory twins for a single as you'd have to be a verrrrry lucky boy to get one with all the solenoids and stuff working properly to switch between the turbos.

On the other hand, if you get an early CA 180 you could maybe drop in a SV rx7 engine legally provided it's from late in the model run. The engine itself will cost about as much as an SR plus you then have the added costs of making it fit and run where as an SR front cut will give you everything you need to bolt it all up.

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meh

11's wouldnt need 300kw.

people can run a flat 12 at around 220-240kw, on slicks and driven well.

For 240kw, you can run standard internals, GTRS turbo, cams, computer, fuel, various other obvious mods. these should get you close to that mark.

With those, your car should hopefully be still quite streetable.

you'll spend to spend about $12k on a standard SR20DET to get those figures, and thats what im lookin at, 12's on street treads.

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I souport publik edukashun

thankz boyz

i dnt no what i wanna do, im not going to spend 12 grand on engine alone, thats 4 sure

okay this is what i was thinking

early model 180sx,10 billion kms, shit paint job.

car.Max $5,000

paint job.approx$2,000

engine, what ever it my be - approx $5,000......honestly i was thinking of the rotary, in the tradingpost they have"10 second pakages" for under 5 grand(cant remeber exACT PRICE)

Rims .approx - $1,500

front mount, blow off valve, turbo timer etc etc, sound system

so say 15 grand for a MUNCHA 180sx :))


but then agian "everyone says". rotarys always fu%k up...

yeh with $15k to work with, your better off buying a decent example, and keep it stock, or you will have lot of problems, wont be reliable, fu*kin up all the time.

Or for $15k, you might be able to find a worked S13 Silvia.

Thats your best bet, buy an already worked car,

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I souport publik edukashun

Damn if your going for an 11sec 1/4 then the best engine would be the CA of course, a nice turbo and your away..
But seriously in the HPI mag they got a RB25DET in a sil which bolted up without much probs!! You'll prolly just need a new radiator ot help make it fit!

Look in the newsagency for the new HPI mag, for 11s its said to be the best and most reliable way Nothing beats displacement!

How about in the latest issue-A 180sx with SR20 running 10's on street tyres!

(obviously wouldn't be street registered here).

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The Golf is like an 16-year-old girl with big boobs. You know it's wrong but you can't keep away from her.

And the CA18 which does 10.6 on street tyres

or your mum on street shoes doing high 30's.

why bother with straight lines, they get boring.

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http://home.iprimus.com.au/xris5/rebuil ... ection.htm

cause you dont need big horsepower to go around a track, or to drift the fuck out of your car.

why bother rebuilding your engine if its not for straight line performance?

:p

SR20 with 2.2ltr Stroker Kit
HKS T51R
Power FC
Injectors
Pump
CES dump/exhaust
Tomei Cams
NISMO Diff / Clutch
NOS

Easy 10's there for you. HOPE you have plenty of mulla

You mention looking at "10sec rotor packages" for around 5 grand. For a start they are taling 10's in an old Mazda that will weigh about half of what the 180 weights. It will still cost you probably about 4 grand to put it in. Then you have the problem that rotor's are a continual pain in the arse. They break down regularly, the chew fuel, and spark plugs (which cost 4 times what normal plugs do). They also have a shitty power curve, with almost no bottom end, unlike the SR which is realatively smooth.

I have an RB25 in my 180 and it goes like a bat out of hell with only a couple of mods. Not the cheapest coversion though as it cost just over $10k to get it in and engineered, etc.

Jeff.

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