Silvia Club of NSW

After being a year off the road the 180 is back and in the process numerous problems have also popped up.

List of problems

1. The idling is all over the place, varies from 200rpm to 1100rpm. Mate took it to a workshop and according to them one of the throttle sensors is faulty (which they assume) but they aren’t sure which one. Is there something which I can check

2.The boost gauge is reading 15 for vacuum, is this because of a vacuum leak somewhere?

3.My 180 was converted to a manual, it’s using a S13 Silvia box and diff, my understanding is that my 180 ECU should work fine. Is this correct?

4.Between 2000- 3500rpm, if I put my foot down, the revs actually click over rather then climb up smoothly, the car also hesitates for a second or two before going.

5.I also need to invest in a manual boost controller. Few weeks’ back my car was pushing past 25+ psi. Currently the car is running at about 9psi (had some vacuum issues). Is there a reasonable priced manual boost controller?

6.Do you guys recommend any good workshops? Ones, which don’t charge over the top.

Thanks in advance guys

Clean the AFM, that would be a good thing to do and its possible that its contributing to some of your problems if its is covered in your filter oil.

You should strip the AFM (Air Flow Meter) and clean the soot and garbage off the hot wires. This has solved many a surgy problem. CAUTION!! Be careful and don't touch them. I used Methylated spirits to clean it.
The AFM's venturi is actually the aluminium body immediately after the airbox. The little black box on top is the hot wire module. (Nissan list the 2 as one part number). You need to disconnect the plug (clean it with contact spray too), and then undo the screws that hold the black box to the ally body. BE EXTREMELY careful when pulling it out, keep it straight so you don't bump the little pegs that have the wires connected to them. There's an O-Ring that seals the shaft into the ally body and this makes it a bit stiff to extract.

Don't touch the wires at all, rather woosh them around in a little tub of alcohol or similar. I have a genuine Nissan manual (for my CA18) and this procedure is NOT described anywhere in the book. They probably replace the part if it gets dirty enough to warrant replacement. Therefore this procedure has no guarantee, but I have done it to my car twice and another 2 cars, and all have been much smoother afterwards.

Other then that, check you spraks plugs to see what condition they are in and if they are fouled and replace them if needed.

Put a new tank of fuel i it because that tends to go bad after awhile.

Just on point 1. I gather you left the old ECU in which was for an auto, now you have manual, I know when I did a auto/man conversion in my toyota it just wouldn't idle properly, as with your car it was all over the place, on point 6. I have used C&V they are good but expensive, I know some local lads that do good work and won't rip you off, they are south south/west (near Hurstville) PM if you want the number.

You can try and check your ecu error codes to see if something isn't functional. There was a topic about this a little back. Not sure of the link, try searching.

You haven't been reading 200sx.org have you?

Thanks for the replies

CMYOSX, I have tried both cleaning and replacing the AFW. I have also used injector cleaner and throttle body cleaner but neither have fixed the problem.

180SXer, Thats what I was thinking about also. I am sure there are members on here that have done auto to manual conversions with their S13s. Did they have to change their ECUs?

Thuan. That souinds like a good idea, I'll do that tomorrow if I can find some reading materials on it.

Here are links to some information that may help.

http://forum.silviansw.com/viewtopic.ph ... error+code
http://www.pandablue.com/nissansilvia/f ... =5082&PN=1
http://www.users.bigpond.com/webspace/1 ... 18eccs.htm


Hope that helps.

Thanks Thuan

I got the ECC error code for the sr20det but theres nothing about how to activate the diagnostic mode?

auto -> manual shouldnt have anything to do with the ECU at all....a mate's done that with his 89 180sx....and it's still running today