Silvia Club of NSW

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 Post subject: 180sx questions
PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 2:12 am 
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T78
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Hi guys

My cousin wants to get a 180....and he wants me to help him find one and look at a few with him.

and being a nissan enthusiast myself i know the basics on wat to look for

just wanna ask some model specific questions which im a bit shady on.

when did the blacktop sr20s come in ?

what was the last production run of the 180s ? is it 97/98 ?

what is a fullproof way of knowing if its a real type x ? ie vin no. ?
i mean i seen some with the tail-light conversion and even changed the colour of the blinkers.....looked like a type x....but owner said it wasnt..

finally is there anything in particular about 180s that are known to cause trouble or i need to look for when inspecting one ?


cheers


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 2:24 am 
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Twin T78
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blacktop start from 1994, type x = 96+
180 stop production in 1998 iirc
real type x quite easy to spot, just check all indicators, parkers, bodykit, wing, interior, dash seats are all the original type x parts

when checking 180's, check the underbody for any drift damage, inside wheel arches for cracks (too many drifters lol), castor rod bushes known to sh1t themselves after a while, cracked coolant bottle, noisy diff, power mirrors working, etc... and more, just cant think of them right now


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 2:31 am 
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T78
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haha yeah im no trainspotter but i can generally pick a type x...but this one had me fooled.....admittedly i didnt look inside the car.. :oops:

cool...
thanks for the tips nissanpower.. 8)
but those can be applied to almost any silvia platform...ie the drift factor.


just wanna know any SPECIFIC 180sx problems...
ie things like the lights and the rear hatch etc


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 9:19 am 
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Car: 97 model 180 sx
Also check the build date.

Type X also came out with a digital odometer and the non type x had a manual odomoter.

Either one will not work in a different car. So if you get in one that looks like a type x and has either a manual odometer or an odometer that is no clicking over then it probably has been changed from a none type x........


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 12:13 pm 
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really ??

shite...didnt know that....thanks for the tip.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2004 12:27 pm 
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Twin T78
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oh and be wary if it has an aftermarket steering wheel on a type X because they come with airbag wheels (might have been in an accident)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2004 6:52 pm 
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As far as 180sx specific problems go......i sometimes get a bit of a leak around the hatch area when it rains really hard.But that's probably just the seals anyway.Otherwise they'd be pretty much the same as the silvia.

Maybe problems with the headlight motors?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2004 8:48 am 
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Car: 97 model 180 sx
Sideways180 wrote:
As far as 180sx specific problems go......i sometimes get a bit of a leak around the hatch area when it rains really hard.But that's probably just the seals anyway.Otherwise they'd be pretty much the same as the silvia.

Maybe problems with the headlight motors?


I used to have that problem but i fixed it with moving the boot lock down......have you tried that?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2004 9:19 am 
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No,i haven't.Can you explain what you mean?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2004 1:19 pm 
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Car: 97 model 180 sx
open the boot, look down at the locking mechanism. You will see 2 bots on each side of the lock, you can losen the bolts and then slide the lock up or down. Push the lock all the way down and then tighten the bots back up. This should hold your boot down more tightly


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2004 1:25 pm 
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Cool.Too easy. :D I'll give it a go tonight.

Cheers!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2004 1:28 pm 
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i am glad you understand my post!!!
it is hard trying to write these things down sometimes!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2004 1:42 pm 
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:lol: It'd be good to be able to write down exactly what you see in your own head!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2004 6:32 pm 
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RPS13X wrote:
open the boot, look down at the locking mechanism. You will see 2 bots on each side of the lock, you can losen the bolts and then slide the lock up or down. Push the lock all the way down and then tighten the bots back up. This should hold your boot down more tightly


I took a quick look at luchtime today and i see that you have to take off the trim section as well because you can't see the bolts.I might save this job for the weekend.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2004 6:44 pm 
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nissanpower wrote:
, noisy diff...


this could mean a couple of things, ie its about to shite itself, it needs new fluid or its a harsh mechanical LSD.

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