Silvia Club of NSW

Why drive when you can drift?
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2003 11:45 am 
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Twin T04
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Car: green datto
Using cgrs post as a base, I'd add springs and shocks, lose the rb74's (you can get pagid RS4-2's for that money, much better pads) and add in some R33 GTS-T front disks and calipers. Saving a bit of money in the parts (stuff like the CES exhaust can be had cheaper, boost controller etc) you could add the cams and an RB25 MAF. End result is a car that goes well (around 210-215 rwkw), stops and turns and should be quite reliable. Complete package and very nice street car.


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 Post subject: Re: $10,000 to mod a S15
PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2003 12:58 pm 
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Location: Mount ISA QLD
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cgrs15 wrote:
Tripper wrote:
me the GF have got $10,000 to spend on her S15, so far we have put on some bling rims coilovers and a fmic, so what should we get the motor is still stock in all aspects bar the fmic


$10,000 would make for a very quick, smart ride.

RB74 brake pads front and rear: $220
Whiteline front and rear adjustable sway bars: $420
Whiteline Strut Brace: $170
Whiteline subframe align and lock kit: $110
CES Exhaust (inc air pod): $2000
Blitz SBC i-D II boost controller: $1000
HKS 555cc fuel injectors: $800
Walbro Fuel Pump: $200
30mm thick radiator: $700
GFB Stealth BOV: $430
Apexi PowerFC and Hand Controller: $2000

Total $8,050

How to spend the last $2000 would depend on personal preference:

Option 1: King springs, shocks and a body kit
Option 2: Tein flex coilovers.

Either option would take you up to the $10,000 budget.


looks like a nice list of parts, we already have put tien coil overs with the in car controller 8) , i want to go a turbo, but she wants to bling the car out some more with a body kit, so i guess i will have to pay for the turbo my self and she can pay for the fitting and painting of the body kit.
the car will need a big bling wing for when we do some high speed runs in the NT, since we are only 100kms from the open roads

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2003 1:52 pm 
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If she wants da bling, then you need a phat zorst and loud show-off valve, since its the most noticable things after the ride height, rims, and big FMIC (which you've already got covered).

I'm a big fan of the C-West bodykit, but for ultimate show-off value its hard to top the excessive size of Veilside's kits. The Nismo kit for the car isn't too bad either.

CGRS15's lineup looks pretty good. The only difference I might suggest is using the Boost Control solenoid that's an option on the PowerFC, so you have a fully integrated system rather than a hodge-podge of electronics.

If you need the interior bling, you can either blow some money on ICE, or get a whole bunch of backlit gauges.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2003 2:02 pm 
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Car: S13 Silvia S-tune
Leather retrim.

Some management, maybe emanage (as long as zei is no where near when it is installed)

Good brake pads.

Front and rear struts and sways.

Some lowered springs, maybe an inch only.

front mount.

suitable wheels.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2003 3:13 pm 
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i will let her choose the bling, after all its her car

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2003 3:16 pm 
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Nismodified wrote:
Some management, maybe emanage (as long as zei is no where near when it is installed)


thats harsh! ohh and its fixed and running very well now :P

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2003 11:32 pm 
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my turn :p

18" Bling Blings - $2500
FMIC - $2000 (oops you have)
Whiteline Lowering and camber castor kit approx $800
Kit - CWEST - V-Side - Drift - $2000
Full Zorst + Fliter $2000
A pillar boost guage $450
BOV- Greddy Trust $400
TT
I guess the next step would be a boost controll device.

That would be a nice package -Zorst and FMIC is more than enuff power-and you wont need to upgrade brakes,clutch etc. Just use a better brake fluid also.

She'll love it!

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2003 12:10 am 
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Disco.tc wrote:
my turn :p

18" Bling Blings - $2500
FMIC - $2000 (oops you have)
Whiteline Lowering and camber castor kit approx $800
Kit - CWEST - V-Side - Drift - $2000
Full Zorst + Fliter $2000
A pillar boost guage $450
BOV- Greddy Trust $400
TT
I guess the next step would be a boost controll device.

That would be a nice package -Zorst and FMIC is more than enuff power-and you wont need to upgrade brakes,clutch etc. Just use a better brake fluid also.

She'll love it!


got 19 inch bling blings cost too bloody much but she liked them so if she happy i get sex me happy
whiteline kit pass the tien flex coilovers with in car controller will do
Turbo timer will be using one but not to run the engine just to run a electric oil pump
BOV its up to her
boost control device will be needed i want a in car controller that lets me fine tune the boost via a trim pot.
body kit is her choice, im trying to talk her into a wide body

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2003 12:12 am 
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also guys since im buying her a turbo what can i get for a max of $3000 with a manifold to suit if needed ?
there goes the last of my Xmas bonus

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2003 2:58 am 
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Car: S15 Spec R
l6a6w6s6 wrote:
mechanical diff


S15 already comes with a fully mechanical diff. torsen helical to be precise, same item as on the GTR. You can't really do better then that, I don't know why people keep suggesting new diffs for S15s :roll:

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2003 8:01 am 
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Twin T04
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Car: green datto
because it's a torsen which isn't a mechanical diff. It's not bad for OEM but a real clutch diff is a massive improvement

Tripper - for your budget don't waste your money on a bigger turbo, you've already got a great one on the car


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2003 8:14 am 
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U better be getting multiple orgasms-looks like she's wants all out!

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2003 11:10 am 
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on the diffs, I've done a fair bit of research on the torsen diff recently, cos I wanted to find out exactly how they work, and what effect one would have on the car.

Basically the S15 diff is not a true LSD. If you try to put too much power to the ground, or lose grip completely on one wheel, it will free spin that wheel and become an open diff.

The principle of the torsen diff is that it's torque sensing.
It delivers more torque to the wheel with the most grip (the wheel offering most resistance to turning) as a multiple of the torque going to the wheel with less grip (usually ~6:1 ratio)
This means that if you're cornering, the inside wheel will get most of the power (because it's turning slower / offers more resistance), unless it starts to spin up and lose grip - in which case drive will be transferred to the outside wheel, hopefully stopping the inside one from spinning. If you really spin the inside wheel so it has no grip at all the diff can't transfer any power to the outside one, and you're back to an open diff.
Basically the diff can transfer up to 6 times as much torque to the wheel with more grip than the wheel with less. If the wheel with less grip has zero, then 6 x 0 = 0, and you're not going anywhere :)


The torsen diff is good for handling slippery conditions at moderate speed and power, good for straight line acceleration (compared to an open diff, or even a viscous LSD (which needs actual slip to happen before it locks up)), and good power delivery on twisty road unless you're really pushing it - at which point it really can't keep up with requirements.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2003 1:43 pm 
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T51

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Car: S15 Spec R
omg - what are you talking about, torsen LSDs are fully mechanical devices.

dumhed - yes that is true hypotetically, but getting wheelspin still isn't zero tractionl. zero traction would only happen if the wheel is in the air. But you can fool it into getting torque by braking then.
I don't know why you said it's not a true LSD either? Short of the active LSD I thought it's the best diff money can buy. What would you consider an upgrade diff for the S15? I'm not too familiar with S15s implementation, I come from an audi background which used to use torsen in their quattro system, but have switched to the cheaper viscous haldex lsd on most cars lately (which is why an A4 still handles better then a TT).

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2003 7:26 pm 
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the torsen diff is mechanical, in exactly the same way as a normal open diff is.
It's just a different gearing design, which has the by product of torque steering in the way you want it, not the opposite.

In an AWD car the torsen diffs are normally used in the transfer case, to control torque split between the front and rear of the car, and in that situation they're close to the best thing for the job.

True that wheelspin isn't zero traction, but it's pretty easy to lift the inside wheel in tight corners, or even just lose enough traction that there's not enough total torque able to be delivered to the ground (if the inside wheel is only getting a very small amount of power to the ground then the outside wheel can only get six times that, which may still not be enough - and there's certainly no hope if using the throttle to steer the car)

Braking to load up the spinning wheel more works, but more so when trying to drive on mud or something, not when nailing it through hairpin bends.

That's the reason I said the torsen isn't a real LSD. It will give more drive to the ground in most conditions than an open diff, but it's very easy to get it into a state where it's not helping at all.
A true LSD will deliver power to both wheels any time it's necessary - and you can't spin one wheel in the air while getting no drive to the other.

A true mechanical LSD is one where the two output shafts are locked together (by either clutch or dogs) when there's more than a certain amount of speed difference between them (usually caused by slip).
A real LSD will deliver up to 100% of the available torque to the wheel with the most grip.

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